And what he’s saying now, more or less, is: it’s time to be real. “I can’t be optimistic right now,” Demno said backstage after the show. The feeling was hard not to notice: models with bruised make-up on their faces, wearing sweat-stained tracksuits, wading through mud with (fake) babies in prams and bags in hand, soaking wet ballet flats feeling only semi-prepared. (Several meme-themed Lay’s Chips leather bags are an official collaboration with PepsiCo, Balenciaga CEO Cédric Charbit confirmed backstage.)

Oversized suits appeared in structured workwear fabrics paired with 3D printed clogs of cartoonish proportions that forced the models not to walk but to stretch through the mud. “I think this show actually expresses that in a big way — the music, the set, it spoke to the moment we’re living in,” Demno said.

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